By Wang Yongjie, Production Manager at ZTRFM | Last Updated: September 15, 2026
I showed up at a factory in Uzbekistan to install a purlin machine. The owner was proud of the concrete pad he'd poured. It looked flat, it looked solid. But when I put a precision level on the machine base, the deviation was 4mm across 6 meters. That's enough to cause tracking problems for the rest of the machine's life. We had to shim and grout for two extra days before we could even power on.
I'm Hu Xianzhe, Cold Roll Forming Technical Engineer at ZTRFM. I've commissioned over 60 roll forming machines in 18 countries. Installation is not complicated, but skipping steps causes months of problems later. Here's the full procedure.
Phase 1: Foundation Preparation (Before Machine Arrives)
This is where most problems start. The machine supplier will give you a foundation drawing. Follow it.
Concrete pad requirements:
- Thickness: minimum 200mm for machines under 8 tons, 300mm for heavier machines. The pad must be separate from the building floor slab (vibration isolation).
- Concrete grade: C25 or higher (25 MPa compressive strength at 28 days). Don't pour lower grade to save money.
- Curing time: Wait at least 14 days after pouring before placing the machine. Full strength takes 28 days, but 14 days is enough if you're careful.
- Flatness: Maximum 2mm deviation over 6 meters. This is non-negotiable. If your contractor can't achieve this, find a different contractor.
Anchor bolts: Most machines use chemical anchors (epoxy) rather than cast-in-place bolts. This is fine as long as the epoxy is rated for dynamic loads. Hilti HIT-RE 500 or equivalent. Drill depth per the bolt spec, clean the hole thoroughly, and let the epoxy cure fully (usually 24 hours at 20°C).
Electrical supply: Run the power cable to the machine location before the machine arrives. You need:
- 3-phase power (usually 380V or 415V, check the machine's electrical spec)
- Neutral and ground wires (don't skip ground -- vibration causes loose connections, and a missing ground is dangerous)
- Separate circuit for the control cabinet (usually 220V single phase for PLC and HMI)
- Voltage stability: ±5%. If your factory has voltage fluctuations, install a voltage stabilizer.
Phase 2: Positioning and Leveling
Once the machine is on the pad:
Step 1 — Position: Place the machine on the anchor bolt locations. Leave 20mm of space under the base for shimming. Don't tighten the bolts yet.
Step 2 — Rough level: Use a spirit level on the machine base (not on the stands, on the base frame). Shim under the low corners. Target: within 1mm over the full length.
Step 3 — Precision level: Switch to a precision level (0.02mm/m sensitivity). Check both directions -- lengthwise and crosswise. Adjust shims until the deviation is under 0.5mm over the full machine length.
Step 4 — Tighten bolts: Tighten anchor bolts in a star pattern (diagonally opposite, not sequentially). Torque to spec (usually 150-200 Nm for M16 bolts). Re-check level after tightening.
Step 5 — Grouting: Pour non-shrink grout under the base frame to fill the 20mm gap. This distributes the load and prevents the machine from walking under vibration. Wait 24 hours before running.
Phase 3: Electrical and Pneumatic Connection
Power connection: Connect the main power to the machine's terminal block. Check phase sequence before powering on -- if the motor runs backward, the hydraulic pump will cavitate and can be damaged. Most machines have a phase sequence relay, but verify manually.
Encoder and sensor wiring: The cut-off encoder (on the measuring wheel) and the PLC sensors must be connected per the wiring diagram. Don't force connectors. If one doesn't fit, it's probably the wrong one.
Pneumatic system: Connect compressed air (usually 0.5-0.7 MPa). Install a water separator and oil mister at the machine inlet. Drain the air tank daily for the first week -- new airlines have condensation.
Hydraulic system: Fill the hydraulic tank with ISO VG46 hydraulic oil. Check the level sight glass. Bleed air from the cut-off cylinder by cycling it 5-6 times with no material in the machine.
Phase 4: First Run and Profiling
This is where you make the first piece. Don't rush it.
Step 1 — Dry run: Run the machine without material for 10 minutes. Listen for unusual noises. Check bearing temperatures (should stay under 50°C). Verify the cut-off mechanism cycles correctly.
Step 2 — First material run: Feed a 2-meter test piece of material (use the correct thickness and width). Run at 30% speed. Watch the material enter the first stand -- it should go in straight and centered. If it veers left or right, adjust the entry guide.
Step 3 — Check the profile: Cut the first piece and measure it. Compare to the drawing. Common first-run issues:
- Springback (dimension too large): The last 2-3 stands need adjusting. Increase the overbend angle slightly.
- Overbend (dimension too small): Reduce the overbend in the last stands.
- Twist (sheet curves left/right): The forming is asymmetric. Adjust the side guides on the affected stands.
- Edge wave (rippling at edges): The material is being compressed too much at the edges. Reduce the gap on the first 3 stands.
- Center buckle: Opposite of edge wave. Increase edge pressure or reduce center pressure.
Step 4 — Cut length calibration: Set the PLC to cut at 3000mm. Run 5 pieces and measure each. If the cut length is off by more than ±2mm, adjust the encoder pulse count in the PLC settings.
Step 5 — Full speed test: Once the profile is correct at 30% speed, increase to 50%, then 80%, then 100%. Check the profile at each speed. Higher speeds can cause tracking issues that don't appear at low speed.
Common Commissioning Problems
Problem: Motor trips on startup. Cause: usually incorrect wiring or a locked shaft. Check phase sequence and confirm the cut-off isn't engaged at startup.
Problem: Cut length is inconsistent. Cause: encoder slippage on the measuring wheel, or the material is slipping in the forming stands. Clean the measuring wheel and check spring pressure.
Problem: Profile is correct at low speed but wrong at high speed. Cause: the material doesn't have enough time to form at higher speed. You may need to slow down, or the flower pattern needs adjustment (last-stand overbend compensation).
Problem: Oil leaking from hydraulic cut-off. Cause: seals damaged during shipping, or over-pressurized. Check system pressure (should be 8-12 MPa for most cut-offs). Replace seals if needed.
Quick Q&A
How long does installation take? For a standard machine (roofing, purlin, decking): 3-5 days including foundation prep. For a complex multi-profile machine: 7-10 days.
Can I install it myself without the supplier's engineer? Yes, if you have a competent mechanical and electrical team. Most suppliers provide remote support via video call. But if it's your first machine, I recommend having the supplier send an engineer.
What tools do I need? Precision level (0.02mm/m), torque wrench (up to 300 Nm), dial indicator, multimeter, feeler gauges, shims (0.1-2mm), drill hammer for anchor bolts, and standard hand tools.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
How long does roll forming machine installation take?
The article states 3-5 days for a standard roofing, purlin or decking machine including foundation preparation, and 7-10 days for a complex multi-profile machine.
Can the buyer install the machine without the supplier engineer?
Yes, if a competent mechanical and electrical team is available, and suppliers commonly provide remote video support. For a first machine, the article recommends having the supplier send an engineer.
What tools are needed for installation and commissioning?
The listed tools are a 0.02 mm/m precision level, torque wrench up to 300 Nm, dial indicator, multimeter, feeler gauges, 0.1-2 mm shims, drill hammer for anchor bolts, and standard hand tools.
